PVC Pipe Repair

Is this a DIY job?

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• Typical DIY time30-60 min
• Typical pro time20-30 min
• Permit requiredNo

⚠Active pipe leak — risk of water damage and electrical hazard. Stop the water before attempting any repair.

Materials you'll need

Tools: hacksaw, adjustable wrench, bucket

DIY steps

1. Shut off the water supply to the affected pipe at the nearest valve or the main shut-off, then open a downstream faucet to drain the water and relieve pressure in the line. Cut or unscrew the pipe at the lowest point to let residual water drain out, placing a bucket underneath to catch the runoff. Wait until no more water drips from the cut ends before proceeding, since water will ruin the PVC cement bond.
2. Locate the damaged section of pipe and mark cut lines on both sides of the damage, leaving at least an inch of clearance from any fitting. Cut the pipe squarely using a PVC pipe cutter or a fine-tooth hacksaw, rotating the cutter around the pipe for a clean, perpendicular cut. Remove any burrs from the cut ends with a utility knife or deburring tool, since burrs can catch debris and prevent a smooth cement joint.
3. Dry-fit the repair by inserting coupling fittings and a replacement pipe section to verify the lengths and alignment, marking each joint with a reference line on the pipe and fitting so you can replicate the orientation during cementing. Ensure the replacement pipe is the same diameter and schedule as the existing pipe, and use PVC couplings, not rubber Fernco couplings, for a permanent rigid repair.
4. Clean the outside of the pipe ends and the inside of the fittings with PVC primer using the attached dauber, applying it in a circular motion to remove dirt and soften the surface for bonding. Let the primer dry until it is no longer shiny, typically 10 to 15 seconds. Primer is mandatory for a code-compliant joint, even on pipes that look clean, since it chemically prepares the surface for cement.
5. Apply PVC cement to the outside of the pipe end and the inside of the fitting with the cement can dauber, using an even coat, then quickly push the pipe into the fitting with a quarter-turn twist to spread the cement evenly. Hold the joint firmly for 30 seconds to prevent the pipe from backing out as the cement sets. Wipe off excess cement immediately with a rag, following the reference marks for proper alignment.
6. Repeat the priming and cementing process for each joint in the repair, working quickly since PVC cement sets in under a minute. Allow the cement to cure for the time specified on the can, typically 15 minutes for handling and 2 hours for water pressure, though cold or humid conditions may require longer. Do not turn the water on until the full cure time has elapsed.
7. Turn the water supply back on slowly and inspect every joint in the repair for leaks, running a dry finger or paper towel around each connection to detect seepage. If a joint leaks, you must cut it out and redo it, since PVC cement cannot be patched once it fails. Let the system pressurize for 15 minutes and check one more time before closing up any wall or ceiling access you opened.