Concrete Crack Repair
Concrete Crack Repair is a common exterior job. Homeowners typically spend about $24 on materials if they tackle it themselves, while hiring a professional usually runs $100–$300 depending on access, parts, and local labor rates. DIY can save up to about $276 versus a full pro job when the work stays straightforward.
Expect roughly 1-2 hours for a careful DIY attempt versus about 30-60 min for a seasoned pro. Difficulty is rated 2/5 (approachable for most DIYers) with low risk. Typical materials include concrete crack filler, concrete patch mix, wire brush. Common tools: chisel, wire brush, trowel.
Use the sections below to weigh DIY against hiring: cost ranges, safety alerts, common mistakes, and a personalized analysis for your ZIP code.
Typical Cost
Cost estimates based on cataloged material prices and regional pro rates. Run the analysis for US-wide retailer prices and a regional professional-cost estimate. How we estimate costs.
Is this a DIY job?
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- Typical DIY time1-2 hours
- Typical pro time30-60 min
- Permit requiredNo
What affects the cost
- Local labor rates for exterior pros and whether the visit is emergency vs. scheduled.
- Brand and quality of parts (concrete crack filler, concrete patch mix, wire brush) versus economy alternatives.
- Tool rental or purchase (catalog estimate about $10 for specialized tools).
- Access difficulty (tight spaces, multi-story work, finished surfaces that must be protected or repaired after the job).
When to hire a pro
- If a tool binds, overheats, or you are unsure of safe technique, stop and reassess or hire help rather than force the cut.
- High-impact DIY mistake — Using the Wrong Filler for the Crack Width: Choose a filler that matches the recommended consistency for the crack width, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing and application.
- Ask whether the crack is a sign of foundation settlement or structural movement, especially if it is wider than 1/4 inch, appears in a staircase pattern along mortar joints, or is accompanied by sticking doors or cracked drywall. A structural engineer may need to evaluate the cause before cosmetic repair.
- Request that the contractor inject the crack with high-pressure epoxy if it is a structural or actively leaking crack, since surface caulking alone will not stop water intrusion through a foundation wall. Epoxy injection bonds the concrete back together from the inside.
- Ask if they will inspect the surrounding slab or foundation for additional cracks, drainage issues, or tree root pressure that contributed to the problem. Addressing the root cause prevents the crack from reopening and new ones from forming.
- Inquire about a warranty on the repair and whether they will return to re-inject or re-caulk if the crack reopens within the first year. A reputable foundation or concrete contractor should guarantee their work against water leakage.
- Verify ladder safety and insurance for height work
- Get written quotes that include cleanup and disposal
Hazards & safety alerts
-
medium injury Cut, puncture, or tool injury
Tools used for concrete crack repair can cause deep cuts, eye injuries, or kickback. Rushing or skipping eye/hand protection multiplies the chance of injury.
Stop and call a pro if: If a tool binds, overheats, or you are unsure of safe technique, stop and reassess or hire help rather than force the cut.
Materials you'll need
| Material | Est. Price |
|---|---|
| concrete crack filler | $8.00 |
| concrete patch mix | $12.00 |
| wire brush | $4.00 |
| Total (DIY materials) | $24.00 |
Tools: chisel, wire brush, trowel
DIY steps
- Put on safety glasses and work gloves, then use a cold chisel and hammer to widen the crack into a V-shape that is at least 1/2 inch deep and 1/2 inch wide at the top. The V-profile gives the filler more surface area to bond to and prevents it from popping out under load.
- Brush out all loose debris with a stiff wire brush, working along the entire length of the crack. Follow with a shop vacuum to remove fine dust and any remaining particles, since filler will not adhere to a dusty or contaminated surface.
- If the crack is deeper than 1 inch, insert a foam backer rod into the bottom of the opened crack. Press it in with a putty knife so it sits below the surface and creates a base for the filler, preventing waste of expensive epoxy and allowing for slight flexing.
- Mix a two-part concrete crack filler or use a ready-to-use polyurethane caulk tube, depending on the crack width. For hairline cracks under 1/4 inch, a liquid crack sealer poured from a bottle is sufficient; for wider cracks, use a trowel-grade epoxy paste.
- Fill the crack from bottom to top, pressing the filler in firmly with a putty knife or trowel to eliminate air pockets. Overfill slightly and then tool the surface flush with the surrounding concrete using a wet trowel or plastic float for a clean finish.
- Allow the filler to cure per the manufacturer's instructions, typically 24 to 48 hours for polyurethane and up to 7 days for epoxy. Keep foot and vehicle traffic off the repaired area until fully cured, and cover with plastic if rain is expected.
- Apply a concrete sealer over the entire slab once the repair is cured to protect against future water intrusion and freeze-thaw damage. Re-seal every two to three years to extend the life of both the repair and the surrounding concrete.
Common DIY mistakes
-
medium Overwidening the Crack
Widening the crack too much can create a weak point in the concrete, making it more prone to further damage or even collapse.
-
low Insufficient Surface Preparation
Failing to properly clean and prepare the surface of the crack can prevent the filler from adhering properly, leading to a weak repair.
-
high Using the Wrong Filler for the Crack Width
Using a filler that is too thick or too thin for the crack width can lead to a poor bond or a weak repair.
-
medium Not Allowing Sufficient Cure Time
Not allowing the filler to cure for the recommended amount of time can result in a weak repair that may not withstand normal traffic or weathering.
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medium Not Sealing the Surrounding Concrete
Failing to apply a concrete sealer to the surrounding concrete can lead to future water intrusion and freeze-thaw damage, compromising the repair.
Frequently asked questions
- How much does it cost to fix a concrete crack?
- DIY materials typically run about $24. Hiring a pro usually costs $100-$300 depending on your area and the scope of the job.
- Can I fix a concrete crack myself?
- It depends on the job. Difficulty is rated 2/5 and risk level is low. Run the free analysis on RepairSmart for a personalized DIY vs. hire recommendation.
- What are common mistakes when you fix a concrete crack?
- Common DIY mistakes include: Overwidening the Crack; Insufficient Surface Preparation; Using the Wrong Filler for the Crack Width. See RepairSmart for the full list and cost breakdown.
- What safety hazards should I watch for when working on concrete crack?
- Key hazards include: Cut, puncture, or tool injury. See RepairSmart for stop-conditions and the full safety list.
Not sure? Get a personalized recommendation
RepairSmart compares US-wide retailer prices with regional pro costs and gives you a weighted DIY-vs-hire recommendation in under 60 seconds.
About these estimates
- Numbers on this page come from the RepairSmart catalog (materials baselines and typical pro ranges). They are educational estimates, not contractor quotes.
- Personalized ZIP analysis may add live or cached retailer prices and regional pro signals when third-party data is configured.
- Read how costs and DIY scores are calculated, our safety & review policy, and about RepairSmart.
- If guidance is marked unreviewed, treat steps and tips as educational only—not a professional sign-off for your home.