Baseboard Installation

Is this a DIY job?

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• Typical DIY time3-5 hours
• Typical pro time2-3 hours
• Permit requiredNo

Materials you'll need

Tools: miter saw, nail gun, tape measure, caulk gun

DIY steps

1. Measure each wall length with a tape measure and record the dimensions, marking stud locations with a stud finder since baseboards must be nailed into studs for a secure hold. Snap a chalk line or mark the top of the new baseboard height on the wall to keep it level around the room. Remove old baseboard by scoring the caulk line at the top with a utility knife, then prying gently with a putty knife and flat bar to avoid tearing the drywall paper.
2. Cut the baseboards to length using a miter saw, making square cuts for butt joints at inside corners and 45-degree miter cuts for outside corners. For inside corners, use a coped joint: cut one piece square and butt it into the corner, then cope the adjoining piece by cutting along the profile with a coping saw so it fits over the first piece like a puzzle piece. Test-fit each piece before fastening.
3. Dry-fit the first run of baseboard along the wall to check for gaps caused by uneven walls or floor, scribing the bottom edge with a compass if the floor is not level so the baseboard follows the contour. Shave the scribed line with a block plane or sander until the baseboard sits flush. Remember that walls are rarely perfectly straight, so take time to scribe for a tight gap-free fit.
4. Apply a thin bead of construction adhesive to the back of the baseboard at stud locations if the wall is wavy, then position the baseboard and drive two 2-inch finish nails into each stud, one near the top and one near the bottom. Use a nail gun for speed or a hammer and nail set for manual installation, sinking each nail head slightly below the surface. Check with a level as you go and shim behind the baseboard if needed to keep it straight.
5. Fill all nail holes with wood filler using a putty knife, pressing the filler in firmly and smoothing it level with the surface, then let it dry completely. Sand the filled holes lightly with fine sandpaper until smooth and flush with the surrounding wood. Fill any gaps at the top edge or corners with paintable caulk, running a smooth bead and wiping excess with a damp finger or caulking tool.
6. Caulk the entire top edge of the baseboard where it meets the wall, applying a steady bead and smoothing it with a wet finger or caulk smoothing tool for a seamless transition. Caulk both inside and outside mitered corners to hide any tiny gaps. Let the caulk dry for at least an hour before painting, and tape off the floor with painter's tape to protect it from drips.
7. Prime any bare wood or filled areas, then paint the baseboard with two coats of semi-gloss or satin trim paint, using a high-quality angled brush for a smooth finish. Cut in carefully along the top and bottom edges, then brush the face with long, even strokes. Remove the painter's tape while the final coat is still slightly wet to avoid peeling the dried paint edge.